This spot was recommended to us by Costos, a barman (and a surfer) who worked
at the campsite further up north and gave us many decent tips on where to go
It’s a little bay with the perfect combination of crystal clear water, small
sandy beach and a bit of rock. Further down there was a beach bar and a surf
school. The latter was puzzling as there wasn’t a wave in sight. It reminded me
of the artificial surf reef back in Bournemouth, which doesn’t work. Anyway,
the surf school had showers and that was good.
Unfortunately the place was badly trashed when we arrived, but it was such a
good spot otherwise, that I immediately set on a tidy up mission. I collected a
few trash bags full of old nappies, condoms and plastic bottles while the one
Greek guy sitting on the beach looked with amusement.
After we made the place more plesant we cracked open a beer and then it was our
turn to look at the Greek guy with amusement as he was doing something unusual.
He was walking around the rocks in the shallow water, picking up mysterious
things out of the sea and eating them. Our curiosity couldn’t bare any longer
and we had to inquire. Tholos, as our new Greek friend is called, was more than
happy to show us what he was doing and soon, with his guidance, I found myself
rummaging through the rocks looking for small shell creatures, which taste a
bit like mussels.
Tholos turned out to be a very cool dude. He didn’t speak much English other
than few odd words but this didn’t discourage him from having a good, long chat
with us. Sometimes resorting to drawing things with sticks on the sand we
talked about fruit, girlfriends, motorbikes, good camping locations and the
Greek economy. As to the latter his favorite saying was “no job, no problem!”.
With Tholos the glass was always half full. Living just round the corner he’d
come and visit us every evening, always bringing something good with him. Once
he brought us fresh figs, then some beer and when I foolishly went swimming
with the last pouch of tabacoo in my pocket, drawning it in the process, Tholos
came to the rescue stuffing my smoking box with golden virginia. One evening he
tought us some Greek. Simple but useful stuff such as counting to 10 and asking
how much the beer costs. We noted it all down in a notepad which I’ve been
using as my Greek conversational guide ever since. More than anything Tholos
brough us good, happy vibes and that always counts the most. At some point as
we were chilling, an unexpected transit of sheep swept through the beach, which
made us feel like we’re in India already.
The rocks by the beach formed small pools of water which looked like little
aquariums containing whatever sea creatures got trapped in them. There were
crabs, sea urchin, eels and a multitude of little fish.
In between the snorkling expeditions we entertained ourselves reading such
classics as Jules Verne’s “Around the world in eighty days”